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Tanning Bed Construction

Bench

The bench is the part of the tanning bed which you lay down and  consists of the tanning bed bulbs and a tanning bed acrylic, the clear part you actually lie on.  The bench is mounted on legs, usually steel or aluminum, which are normally bolted on and sometimes welded.  A tanning bed bench also may house the ballasts, timers and other interconnecting parts which you may have to access for maintenance.find out about residential tanning bed construction here

 

Canopy

The canopy is the part of the tanning bed which is the “top” of the tanning bed and contains the same components as the bottom, or bench, which you may need to access for maintenance.

 

Frame

The frame of a tanning bed is usually always steel which is normally bolted together, however there is at least one manufacturer who welds their frames together for extra strength and longevity.

 

Skin

The material which makes up the skin of a tanning bed can be made of plastic, aluminum, or steel.  This part of the tanning bed is the most varied with manufacturers producing many varieties of tanning bed skins to choose from.  All-steel tanning beds offer life-time service where as plastic tanning beds offer smooth lines and appearance but limited life.

 

Acrylics

The surfaces on which the tanner lies and shield the user by physical separation from the lamps on the bench and canopy are typically referred to as the "acrylics". Tanning bed acrylics are manufactured from a base material of Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA), type UVT (UV-transmitting), which has been formulated to have a spectral transmittance in the wavelength region 290-400 nm. This should not be confused with a standard acrylic, or "plexiglass", which would not transmit within this spectral range effectively inhibiting the tanning properties of the unit.

These acrylic materials should never be cleaned with any agent containing alcohol (i.e. glass cleaner), as this will adversely affect the material surface causing a phenomenon known a "crazing". This will present itself as small fissures resembling spiderwebs forming where stresses are most concentrated on the part and in the region which was subjected to the chemical attack.

These shields break down over time as they are exposed to UV and oxygen and must be reconditioned every few years. Failure to do so will reduce the transparency of the acrylic to UV rays, although to the eye it will still appear perfectly clear. The reconditioning is most commonly done with a compound called Novus #2, which is a slightly gritty cleaning compound that removes a microlayer of the acrylic, restoring to near new condition and is used in many other industries. This being said, a better practice is to replace the acrylic as the oxidation described above affects the physical properties of the material rendering it less impact resistant.

Frosted Tanning Bed Acrylics

There are now tanning beds available with frosted acrylics.  The frosting does reduce the UVB rays which pass thru by 20% and manufacturers try to compensate by placing 120 watt lamps versus 100 watt lamps in the tanning beds with frosting acrylics.

 

Shocks, Struts, & Lifts

The part of a tanning bed which separates the canopy from the bench and allows the canopy to open with little effort and close to any position are called “shocks” or struts or lifts.  In most tanning beds these shocks are similar to the ones used in hatch-backs for mini-vans, etc and are very specific to each bed in which they are used.  Some of the more expensive tanning units use automatic lifts or garage door type springs for easy use of very heavy canopies.

 

Bulbs & Lamps

Regular tanning beds use several fluorescent lamps that have phosphor blends designed to emit UV in a spectrum that is somewhat similar to the sun. Smaller home tanning beds usually have 12 to 28 100 watt lamps while systems found in salons can run from 24 to 60 lamps each consuming 100 to 200 watts.

 

Ballasts

Most tanning beds use choke ballasts, a technology that has been around for about 100 years, consisting of a simple inductor which limits amount of current passing through, and requires a lamp starter to preheat the ends of the lamp briefly at start. Newer ballast systems include magnetic ballasts, electronic ballasts and more recently high frequency ballasts that induce tanning and other fluorescent lamps to work using less wattage, by using higher frequencies. In general, newer ballast designs produce less heat and are more energy efficient. All choke ballasts require 230V only because no one has found a need for 120V choke ballasts in tanning manufacturing.

 

The ballasts regulate the power that is sent to the lamps, so that if you install a 160W lamp in a tanning bed that has 100W ballasts, only 100W will be delivered to the lamp. The lamp will still ignite and offers no benefits over a 100W lamp, and may actually create less UV since it is designed for higher current. It will not damage the system, although installing 160W lamps with a 100W ballast will result in very short lamp life, as the 160W lamp cathode/anode sets are typically designed to run at much higher temperature.

 

Roll-out ballast trays for tanning beds are provided by some manufacturers to make maintenance on parts likes ballasts, relays, and capacitors much easier.  All of the ballasts and important electrical components are mounted on a tray with wheels in which you can remove one cover and have instant access to all serviceable components of a tanning bed or booth except the lamp socket and starters, which you access from the front by removing the acrylic.

 

Starters

The lamp starter part of the bed (small tan cylinder) is used only on beds with choke ballasts and is a simple plasma starting switch. It has no bearing on how powerful the bed is. Either it works (the lamp lights) or doesn't. They are installed one per lamp on beds that use them, and are generally replaced every couple of years in salons or every 6 to 10 years for infrequently used systems.

 

Timers

Tanning bed timers include the old mechanical egg type which are still in use today in cheaper home tanning bed models and the newer digital timers which can be connected with CAT5 style communication wire or with new wireless adapters.

  

Cooling Fans

There are two types of cooling fans in a tanning bed: the first are the fans which keep the internal components like ballasts cool and the second type are the body cooling fans.  The more fans the better for component cooling because heat removal can be a problem down the road if your room is not adequately ventilated. 

 

A body cooling fan mounted at the end of a tanning bed is the ideal body cooling system.  Preferably the body cooling fans should come on automatically with the bed and have separate fan speed controls.

 

Buck-boosters

These are step-up (boost) or step-down (buck) voltage transformers which take your building's input voltage, usually 208-248 volts, and regulates it to the recommended input voltage for your tanning unit (220-232 volts). 

 

Buck boosters are ONLY required if your existing voltage, as determined by your particular location, is outside of the 220-232V range as dictated by the tanning bed manufacturer.  Buck boosters usually cost between $150-$300 and are pre-wired for your needs.

 

Buck-boosters are a small, heavy, grey box which lay behind the bed.  The buck-booster plugs into the wall (or hard-wired as required) and the tanning bed is plugged or hard-wired into the buck-boosters.  For larger salons you may also elect to install a single large transformer in your electrical utility room and run all your electricity through this unit.  You must perform a cost analysis of these two options and you may want to go to three-phase power distribution versus single-phase to further save money in electrical cost.  This is only a valid option for salons with 10 or more tanning units.

 

Single versus Three Phase Power

Most manufacturers will pre-wire commercial tanning beds in both single and three phase power operation.  Many of the largest tanning beds only come in this configuration because of the large amount of current draw required.  The most important fact to know as a salon owner is that you always want 3 phase power operation on as many tanning beds as possible to lower your electric bill.  In summary, you want to know if three-phase is available in your location or how expensive it would be to have it brought in to your power panel.

 

Paint Color & Graphics

Tanning beds come in a variety of colors and graphics packages which include contemporary, tropical, and even space age look.  There are also tanning bed manufacturers who will put your logo on the unit or paint with your color scheme.  Many of the fastest growing fitness franchise use custom tanning bed builders to match their color schemes exactly.  These include Anytime Fitness, Planet Fitness, and Snap Fitness franchises.

 

 

 Read more here about tanning bed bulbs, tanning bed info, tanning bed construction, and tanning bed health concerns or you may want to learn more about how to start a tanning salon.



My name is Rick Houston and I have been in the tanning salon business for years and specialize in Internet marketing of new tanning beds and used tanning salon equipment.  I am also the author of a simple how-to eBook called How to Open a Tanning Salon from A to Z!  which can give you invaluable insight into opening your own tanning salon with less than a $20,000 initial investment (and good credit or $50k without it)!  You may call me toll-free 888-999-7577, email me here, or join our mailing list here to be immediately notified of new offers.